uPVC doors are increasingly popular due to their strength and added security. Highly durable, they will last for many years too. But over time, uPVC doors are vulnerable to getting a slight drop or lean.
This is often referred to as being “out of square”, and the way to fix it is with the toe and heel door technique. If the drop or lean isn’t dealt with early on, further problems can develop with the door’s functionality. For instance, users may find it hard to lock the door, or gaps can result in drafts or leaks during the winter months. Even worse, the door could rub against the frame and cause irreversible damage, in which case, a costly replacement would be required.
Here’s our guide on how to toe and heel a door correctly, as well as how you can get professional locksmith training for repairing and adjusting a uPVC door.
Toe and heel door procedure: an introduction
A door will require toeing and heeling if it becomes out of square. This is noticeable when one side of the door is fully supported by hinges, while the other side (the lock side) leans or drops.
The toe and heel door method is a simple and effective way of correcting the problem, and it’s a common technique used by many locksmiths and uPVC repair engineers. If you have already tried calibrating the hinges to correct the drop, but to no avail, heeling and toeing should be your next step for adjusting a upvc door.
So how does this method work? We try to explain the physics below…
The physics of heel and toe in adjusting a uPVC door
When you heel and toe a door, you are essentially realigning a door with the door frame. It is done by using the glass to reinforce the door (much like a support strut on a wooden gate), and getting the glass to support its own weight.
The weight of the glass is what causes the drop in the first place, and when one side leans, diagonal bracing is needed in order to counter it. By bracing the door with compression, force goes through the glass itself, so the glass acts as the brace. As a result, this support realigns the door.
The job itself is pretty easy for locksmiths to complete once they have the know-how, and you won’t require expensive tools or equipment. Read on for what you need, and our step-by-step guide on how to toe and heel a door.
First, get your toe and heel door essential tools
- One or two stiff putty knives (for removing the beading strips)
- A glazing shovel (to help you lift the door frame)
- A selection of packers and shims (available from most DIY retailers)
- General purpose clear silicone
How to toe and heel a door: 7 easy steps
Before you get started, make sure it’s a door drop that you’re dealing with. Measure the door diagonally from corner to corner (top left to bottom right, top right to bottom left). If these measurements do not match, the door is out of square.
Now follow these steps to heel and toe a door:
- First, remove the beading strips that hold any glass or panels to the door. It’s best to start with the longer strips and finish with the shorter strips. Simply place your stiff putty knife in-between the beading strip and the frame, about halfway down the strip. From there, gently work the knife as a lever until the beading strip breaks away.
- Once the beading strips have been removed, remove any glass or panels from the door. Look for any packers that are within the frame, and remove these before reinstalling the glass or panels into the door frame. When you fit the glass or panels back into the frame, move it as close to the locking side of the door as possible, so that there’s a gap on the hinge side. From there, you should measure the distance between the glass or panel to the top of the frame and the distance between the glass or panel to the hinged side of the frame. Make a note of these measurements.
- Using the measurements detailed above, take two packers that are half of the total width of the measurement (e.g. for an 8mm gap, packers need to be around 4mm). Again, using the measurements detailed above, another two packers should be half of the total height measurement (from the glass or panel to the top of the frame). Once you have these packers ready, you can begin to position them within the frame.
- Using the clear silicone, place one of the width-based packers and one of the height-based packers within the bottom left corner of the frame. Each of the packers should be positioned around 50mm away from the corner, further along the longer door strip. These packers will help to distribute the pressure evenly. From there, you can add the glass or panel back into the frame.
- The glass or panel will naturally lean slightly towards the locking side of the door, which can be corrected by placing the glazing shovel into the lock side and gently pushing the glass of panel towards the hinged side. To hold this in place, add the second width-based packer to the top right corner of the frame – again, 50mm down from the corner.
- Now you will need to use the glazing shovel on the top of the lock side of the door, and work it gently to lift the frame into place, before adding the second height-based packer to the top right corner of the frame – 50mm left of the corner.
- Once all the packers are in place, check that the frame and the door panels are level with one another. Then test whether the door is able to open, close and lock properly, before refitting the beading strips.
Learning how to toe and heel a door with MPL…
We understand that many people are visual learners, and often prefer to train under expert guidance. In addition to the toe and heel door procedure, our uPVC repair training covers many other aspects of uPVC access.
Training modules include opening of failed multi-point door locks and windows, realignment and adjustment, measurements and identification, handle sizes and styles, how to fit new lock replacements, replacing obsolete locks, Tilt and Turn windows, removing and replacing hinges, and much more.
Enhance your skills with our Locksmith Training Courses – find out more about our 1-Day uPVC Repair Course or our 2-Day uPVC Repair Course. (Both courses cover adjusting a uPVC door with heel and toe)
Or for complete locksmith training, enrol on our 5-Day City & Guilds Accredited Locksmith Course.
